Am I a beach bum?
We went to the beach again, as it is too hot and it is practically free. All we have to pay for is petrol and a very healthy $24 vegan lunch. It is technically not free, but we get a lot from it. It cools us down, good training and it is great fun! We spend about two to three hours, so we kind of get our moneys worth.
Even if we are using cheap old bodyboards we manage to have a lot of fun. Lizzie is very experienced with catching the right wave and when, but I am getting there. Today I had my best day. The waves were not so big today, but they packed a really good punch; if you caught the right wave of course.
I managed to catch a few good ones that sent me at hurdling speed towards the beach.
The best wave I caught is what I call a double wave; not sure if it is correct surf speak, but I will try to explain it. A double-wave is when a minor wave is followed by a greater wave. If you catch a wave like that, based only on my experience of course, you will have an awesome ride.
You will first catch the minor wave and slightly feel the light push from it, as it is not that strong. The greater wave will of course “eat” the minor wave and have a lot more force; so it is here where it gets very interesting, and fun. As the greater wave packs more punch it will not only “eat” the minor wave, it will push forward with greater force. So if you manage to catch the minor wave perfectly, the greater wave will thrust you forward with great force and give you an awesome ride.
It was really exciting when that happened. I only managed to catch one of these double-waves. First I felt slightly disappointed as the minor wave felt like a typical wave that looks big, but dies out very quickly; but out of the blue the greater wave took over and just sent me shooting down the sandbank towards the beach.
I also love to get on top of the big waves, because it is one great exciting bumpy ride. You might not reach any great speeds, but it is exciting; especially if you feel like you might get dunked.
As you can see, I am turning into a beach bum and really want to learn how to surf.
